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stare at computer or go outside?

Dec 01

The last couple of Thursdays there has been a big beach football game going on out in front of the surf camp.  Nick Holt, Bill Brandenberger, Patrick Brennan, Lock Cooper, quite a few others… it has been super fun.  Everyone I’ve talked to since was super sore after the game.  We are turning into old men.  Not only did I get sore but I pulled my groin the first week and barely made it through the second week.  Pretty much its been ten days without surfing, finally today I felt normal today, even made it through a 3 mile run on the beach.  I’m not sure but I think we’ll be playing football again tomorrow??  Check my facebook page or ping Mike Gerhardt from FT’s or Kelly Zak since they’re the ones who own a football.  And what about that Sunday night game against the Colts??  GO CHARGERS!!!

Waves are flat but they should get a little bigger over the next few days.  Bocas del Toro has been on fire the last two weeks but with the holidays and all of our friends in town we wanted to stay close to home.  Tomorrow I have a 20 minute speech to give at JW Marriott in front of about 200 people.  I spent all day yesterday trying to write it, which I’ve subsequently torn up.  I’m supposed to have visuals to go with it… then on Sunday night the whole event (called Awesomeness Fest) will have a beach party in the new park at WRSC.  I think I’m going to spend the day painting the two surfboards we just glassed, or start glassing the two 8’0s waiting in the shaping room.  The speech will work itself out, just like everything else does, I’m a little burnt out trying to write something I’ll just end up winging anyways, and its not until 6pm so I have all day tomorrow to worry about it…  Shawna asked me to shape a surfboard for her son Lucas, who I’ve known since he was born.  I was honored, its the first surfboard I’ll be making for someone else.  People have asked me to shape them a board at least a dozen times since I started shaping a few months ago, but I’ve declined to take any orders because we still have a lot of refining to do (that feeling will probably never end).  To shape a board for a local grom that I’ll get to watch grow up surfing along with my boys, thats an offer one  just can’t refuse.  Thats what surfing is all about.

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