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alive and well

Jun 04

I finally break radio silence. Not sure really why I haven’t popped my head up to see whats been going on around me. I think what has happened is that for the first time in my adult life I’ve fallen into a routine. My life currently consists of my family (wife and 2 boys), my job (mostly the surf camp), surfing as much as I can (4 hours/day?), a couple of close friends I hang with a bit (before falling asleep at the sad hour of 9pm) and a bunch of friends and family I never have the time to write back to on facebook or call up on a Sunday night just to catch up.

We have had a niƱera named Rosie for the last three months or so, she is awesome. She works Monday – Friday and half days on Saturday. It really helps to have the help, she definitely helps Holly so incredibly much and she allows me to focus on surfing so I can improve. Plus its easier to bring the entire family to the beach and for Holly and I to surf together. Or Rosie, since she is now surfing too. Is it me or is everyone surfing these days? I love it, reminds me of all of those surf movies and Malibu before I was even born, as though I may have missed out on it the first time around but not this time.

Normal day: I wake up at 6am, perhaps a little earlier or later depending on when Happy or Otis want to get up, but pretty much the crack of dawn as far as I’m concerned. We watch Discovery Kids, eat Cheerio’s, sometimes hang out in the surf camp restaurant or on the beach for an early morning low tide cruise.

7AM or 8AM or so: go surf. Surf Casitas, surf the rivermouth, surf Avellanas, surf the reefs. Surf a lot if its good and surf less if it sucks. It always seems to be pretty good somewhere fortunately.

12PM-3PM: sit down with my laptop. get overwhelmed by all of my email. Whoops, darn, I forgot to email this person or an “oh crap” I totally screwed that up. But then of course there are all of those “oh thats awesome” emails and people I haven’t talked to since high school pinging me on facebook and I smile. I get around to reading them when something comes up, so I don’t get to write as many emails as I’d like. I spend a lot of time on the computer doing not-as-fun-as-email stuff so by the time I end all of that I’m spent. Besides emails, I’m helping to train Larry McKinney in the sales office, also Marcela is working in the office too. I spend some time to call return guests, or to meet guests when they check in. I’ve been involved in improving the board cage, boards, expanding the surf shop, some other projects that get me walking around and talking to builders and stuff. I try to fit a breakfast burrito and a coconut and milk smoothie in there somewhere too.

3PM: whoa, its 3pm already? Where are we going to surf?

Sunset is at 5:30PM, so no matter what I’m done surfing by then.
5:30PM-8:30PM: eat dinner with the boys, chill with the family on the deck. Drink a couple of vodka tonics, or Imperials, or all of the above if we’re staying up late (rare lately). Put the boys to sleep. Sit on the couch and watch some tv. Be tired. Realize that I’m 31 years old and surfing four or five hours a day, so its ok to be tired and falling asleep on the couch at 830pm.

Sometimes I’ve been staying up to 10 or 11 or even later, but not often as no matter what, the boys are going to wake up as though its Christmas morning. God, it can be awful, but what can you do? Happy wakes up at least 3 times/night, Otis wakes up and cries sometimes, like if he wets the bed. Then he has to sleep in our bed, which is a double. Happy is already sleeping with us. Daddy gets to sleep on the couch, woo hoo! I got tired of that so I put a bed in my office, and now its feeling a little bit like a college dorm room because I’m such a slob. I did volunteer to do laundry for the family and have a washer / dryer set up in my room a couple of days ago. I do that, the trash, wash a few bottles, clean up after myself. I’m pretty bad, thankfully I have an awesome wife that lets me surf for a living and does so much for the family. Having Rosie has been great too. Holly and I are talking about going away for a couple of days alone, it would be the first time in years. Years.

I realize that I’ve been planning events in my life around low tide. If the tides are opposite, you might find me switching my schedule up a bit, but pretty much this is what every day has been feeling like lately. Its the first time I’ve ever had a routine, and I really like it.

Crazy as it may sound, I love the fact that we’re in a world recession. I may not be making the same amount of money but I sure as hell am surfing more. I have less work, I get to focus on the guests that matter most, I get to live on the beach and surf all of the time so if there are less people going on vacation to Tamarindo, there are less people surfing in the water. And it has been true, as we’ve had awesome AWESOME surf and not really any crowds that I’ve felt. It has been really nice. The speculaters and realtors that never intended to call Tamarindo their home have moved somewhere else. Those that call Tamarindo their home are taking pride in saying that. The town feels good. There is actually a community growing here. Holly and I are feeling really good about living here, things have come full circle. I don’t care if I have to tend bar or drive the boat, I’ve done all of the jobs at WRSC and I’ll do anything to have the quality of life one can only experience when they go out and suceed in setting up life exactly as they would live it, if they were given the chance. I am happy.

I’ve been taking periods of time away from the internet. Oh internet, how I love you and hate you both at the same time. Its a weird feeling. Life in the matrix is ok, but it gets old when you spend all day staring at a screen. Don’t be mad at me because I haven’t written, thats why I blog.

Adrian Fernandez, my good friend, my lawyer. He has a 1000 sq meter lot for sale in Avellanas for ,000. This property is a very nice, shaded, flat parcel that borders the quebrada that passes under the new bridge right before my house. It would be about a 2 minute longer walk to the Avellanas Rivermouth than my house is.

On the topic of things for sale, 91.1 La Radio radio station is for sale. As you probably know, I do the radio surf reports for 91.1. I’m not sure of the exact price and what is included besides the frequency, but I’m assuming it is the station in Zapote (I’ve been there, its really nice), their advertising clients, other business assets. I heard .5 million thrown out there but know that it is negotiable. Will someone please buy this and help to bring more live shows to Costa Rica? Please? Will someone help me bring better music to this country? Please??? I love the oldies, and I can dig some house music, but seriously folks. Anyone? Yes, I know its a recession, we already discussed that. Quality of life is seriously increased with good music and concerts. Costa Rica is such an open market, lets rock out!

Other things that are for sale are the triplex in Langosta that WRSC manages for 5,000, a 1986 VW Westfalia camper that hs CR plates and just needs to be cleaned for 00, a few soft top surfboards…

Things I am looking to buy are epoxy surfboards, leashes, fins, wetsuit jackets, and hats for the surf shop. If anyone is flying to Costa Rica and wants to bring a box down with them I will pay you.

The CNS Surf Contest is being held in Tamarindo January 10 and 11 at Witch’s Rock Surf Camp. WRSC team rider Cedric Aufrette just placed second in the opening CNS event in Hermosa last weekend behind an Argentinian pro who was in-country for another contest (that I think he won). Tamarindo will be good, the sand bars have been great lately. CNS where do I send the check? Please someone please help me. Sebastian from Babylon, if you are still interested in co-sponsoring the party on the night of the 10th, please let me know.

Patrick Smyth emailed me this photo of Flash, me and Chris Meredith. I think it is funny as hell, though I’m sure my mother isn’t impressed. Holly and I are planning on flying back to San Diego by December 20th and have Christmas back in Cali. We’ll be staying in the cottages in OB. I have my 6’1 Native fish waiting for me in the closet. Cold water isn’t that bad, if you know its only going to be for a short time. Kent, lets hook up for family days at the beach and go surf!

On the topic of the San Diego Chargers, I’m going to keep my mouth shut and not tell you all of the reasons why our season has gone to shit. My fingers are crossed that KC beats Denver right now. We don’t deserve the playoffs with how we’ve been playing (until last Thursday night when we whooped on the Raiders)

It wasn’t that long ago that I was flying back and forth from SD to Tamarindo almost every week to ten days. I’m really happy to finally be in a routine and in one place, this will definitely work. Come visit us, flights are cheap as hell right now.
It Won’t Be Long.mp3

Thanks to Joe Walsh and WRSC, THEY ROCK!!

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