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Archive for the Category "Surfer Posts"

Surf Blogging by Joe Walsh Jun 15

I’m back in Tamarindo, today was a long day. Actually it has been a long week. In the last seven days I hosted the CNS Red Bull surf contest at the surf camp, led a surf tour to Santa Teresa, Playa Hermosa de Jaco, and then San Jose. I flew to Orlando to the surf expo, back again to Costa Rica three days later. As soon as I landed back at the surf camp I had back to back meetings. At least they were with cool people. I’m tired though.

Check out the swell model I just pulled from wetsand right now:

I heard a rumor that there were some sets coming in at sunset. I’m pretty sure from what I saw downstairs that everyone is going out partying, hence no dawn patrol. Not me… I’m going surfing early tomorrow morning, I’ve already got my board ready… super excited like when I was a kid.. probably because I haven’t surfed in a few days. more…

Setting up for the party Jun 15

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alive and well Jun 04

I finally break radio silence. Not sure really why I haven’t popped my head up to see whats been going on around me. I think what has happened is that for the first time in my adult life I’ve fallen into a routine. My life currently consists of my family (wife and 2 boys), my job (mostly the surf camp), surfing as much as I can (4 hours/day?), a couple of close friends I hang with a bit (before falling asleep at the sad hour of 9pm) and a bunch of friends and family I never have the time to write back to on facebook or call up on a Sunday night just to catch up.

We have had a niƱera named Rosie for the last three months or so, she is awesome. She works Monday – Friday and half days on Saturday. It really helps to have the help, she definitely helps Holly so incredibly much and she allows me to focus on surfing so I can improve. Plus its easier to bring the entire family to the beach and for Holly and I to surf together. Or Rosie, since she is now surfing too. Is it me or is everyone surfing these days? I love it, reminds me of all of those surf movies and Malibu before I was even born, as though I may have missed out on it the first time around but not this time.

Normal day: I wake up at 6am, perhaps a little earlier or later depending on when Happy or Otis want to get up, but pretty much the crack of dawn as far as I’m concerned. We watch Discovery Kids, eat Cheerio’s, sometimes hang out in the surf camp restaurant or on the beach for an early morning low tide cruise.

7AM or 8AM or so: go surf. Surf Casitas, surf the rivermouth, surf Avellanas, surf the reefs. Surf a lot if its good and surf less if it sucks. It always seems to be pretty good somewhere fortunately. more…

Back from the dead Jun 03

I still have this nasty hacking cough that I’ve had for two weeks now. It got worse when we went to Peru. The cold water, the intense paddling, the abundance of waves. The fact that the coastal zone of Peru is a giant desert and it gets really windy and cold didn’t help. The biggest reason why I (and a few others of us) got sick was because when we were trying to leave Lima we were told that Costa Rica had quarantined us in Peru because we didn’t have yellow fever vaccinations. hmmm. That would have been something worth knowing when we bought our tickets to Peru in the first place. They told us that we had to get vaccinations and then wait in Peru for ten days before returning home. All of this when we were racing like hell across a very crowded Lima, arriving for our flight less than an hour before departure.

Fortunately in practically every Latin American country I’ve traveled to, there is someone willing to bend the rules with the help of a “donation” for some charitable cause. We bribed the incredibly old lady nurses that worked in the airport health clinic, they shot us up with yellow fever inoculations (probably sharing the same needle, who knows), then ran back to the ticket counter to check our bags and sprint to the gate minutes before the plane left. On the plane, my body collapsed. My hacking cough returned after doing the 1000 meter dash. Maybe I was just worn down from surfing incredibly insane waves for the past week in cold water. Who knows. All I do know is that I’m feeling like I’ve returned from the dead. I’m told this happens to me every time I travel to the edge of the earth. I can’t remember as everything seems to be a blur. You gotta love this job.

Thanks to Joe Walsh and WRSC, THEY ROCK!!

Chicama – Peru Jun 02

OK…. I haven’t been on the computer barely at all this week, not much internet here in the middle of nowhere. Here are some early pics of some of the waves we got on this tour to Peru. We’ve been in Chicama for three days surfing a pretty fun swell. It hasn’t been huge but definitely fun, and EMPTY. This south swell was really late, normally there aren’t any souths in November. We got really lucky. I’ll write more later :-)

Thanks to Joe Walsh and WRSC, THEY ROCK!!

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